Oysters, A Very Brief History By Desiree Bridge

Oysters have a long culinary history in America. Excavations of ancient shellfish

middens on the East Coast provide evidence that coastal Native Americans relied on

oysters as a vital food staple. Using sustainable harvesting practices, they were able to

ensure that the East Coast oyster beds remained healthy and productive for

generations. Native Americans would have hand-collected oysters in shallow waters,

allowing the population to recover after being harvested. Oysters could have been eaten

raw, sometimes steamed in seaweed, and roasted on heated stones or fire. There are

written records of oysters being mixed with acorns* to make a stew. Native Americans

could preserve oysters by smoking or drying them, with some groups storing them in

birch bark containers.

A historic postcard depicting the immense scale of the Glidden Midden, once a towering shell heap along the Maine coast. Photo Credit:Postcard courtesy of the Hudson Museum.

Due to their sustainable practices, early European settlers were amazed at the

abundance of oyster reefs on the North American coast. Oyster shells have been found

in shell middens on Roanoke Island dating to the 16th-century Roanoke Colony. In A

True Relation, Captain John Smith records the Jamestown settlement trading with

Native Americans for provisions, which included oysters in 1608. Pilgrims could acquire

oysters from the Wampanoag tribe and the oysters may have been included in the

Thanksgiving feast. Though there isn’t an explicit account of the early settlers in the

Cape Fear region consuming oysters, it is highly probable that they did, because of the

regular consumption patterns of early American settlement sites.

 Illustration capturing oyster consumption during early American history—when oysters were enjoyed by all social classes and featured in colonial cookbooks.  Image Credit: IWFS Blog

In the 17th and 18th-century oysters could have been harvested by using rakes, tongs, or hand-picking. By the 1700s, with the abundance of oysters, they became a common food source for all social classes. If oysters were not easily available, colonists could use salsify, also called the oyster plant, as a replacement in recipes. Native to Europe, salsify was considered by many to mimic the flavor of oysters once cooked. In the

1800s the growing popularity of oysters combined with new methods for preserving and transporting perishable foods would start depleting the once plentiful oysters reefs of the East Coast. Demand would drive up the price of oysters making them accessible only to an upper social class.

A glimpse into the 1800s oyster trade: workers shuck oysters to meet the growing demand that would eventually strain natural reefs. Image Credit: Coastal Review (coastalreview.org)

The first American cookbook printed in 1796, American Cookery by Amelia Simmons,

included an oyster recipe called “To smother a Fowl in Oysters”. This recipe showcases

the love of oysters by the early American cooks.

Fill the bird with dry Oysters, and sew up and boil in water just sufficient to cover the

bird, salt and season to your taste–when done tender, put into a deep dish and pour

over it a pint of stewed oysters, well buttered and peppered, garnish a turkey with sprigs

of parsley or leaves of celery: a fowl is best with a parsley sauce.

*Please do not consume wild acorns unless you know how to properly leach out the

toxic tannins.

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As we reflect on the long-standing importance of oysters in American history, from Native stewardship to colonial kitchens, it’s clear these humble shellfish have always been more than just a delicacy. Their story is one of sustainability, culture, and culinary tradition.

To continue celebrating oysters today, be sure to check out our Book of the Month, specially chosen by Executive Director Chris Webb, which explores the modern craft oyster boom and the renewed appreciation for these remarkable mollusks.

Rounding out this exploration of early American foodways, join us for our next Historic Happy Hour on September 16th at 4:30 PM. Frank McMahon, Assistant Site Manager at Halifax State Historic Site, will present on 18th-Century Brewing, offering a fascinating look at how beer, like oysters, was woven into the fabric of daily life in early America. His expertise in archaeology and cultural resource management will bring depth to the brewing techniques, ingredients, and social rituals that shaped colonial communities.

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About the Author

Desiree is the Customer Liaison and Merchandise Specialist at Turtle Central, part of the Bald Head Island Conservancy. With a rich and varied background that includes work as both a historian and a trained baking and pastry chef, she brings a unique blend of creativity, curiosity, and depth to everything she does. Her diverse experiences inform her perspective and contribute to her thoughtful approach to storytelling, education, and community engagement.